There are times when a slot is needed to allow for wood movement. Such examples are breadboard ends, table top cleats, drawer runners, workbench construction, or anywhere two or more screws are anchoring a solid board across grain. Solid wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. A 30” table can move up to ½”! If the anchoring system does not allow for this movement, the top will likely crack under the strain.
One traditional method of relieving this tension is to move the drill bit to-and-fro when drilling the hole in the anchoring member. This unfortunately makes an “hour glass” shaped hole that is very narrow in the center of the board. The top surface looks like a nice slot, but the center is very small and constricted.
The “Drill-A-Slot” solves this problem by creating two holes touching each other. The small triangles that are left can be removed by the conventional to-and-fro movement of the drill bit. With the “Drill-A-Slot”, you can make a slot as long as you wish by simply repeating the process. The small triangles are “wasted away” after all the holes are drilled.
Drill-A-Slot can even be used for blind holes that don't go entirely through the cleat. Or can be used to make a mortise in a tight spot.
The small size also allows you to get into tight areas while making furniture.
Drilling multiple holes that touch each other is impossible without some fixture for stability.
3 Simple Steps to precise slots.
A pilot hole is drilled. Then the post of the Drill-A-Slot is placed in that hole.
A second &/or third holes are drilled on either/or both sides of the first hole.
Then, with a few to-and-fro movements of the drill bit, the holes become a slot!